![]() In the other atolls you might find a family pension and some stores with basic provisions, not much else. The closest to Tahiti are Rangiroa and Tikehau which due to this proximity are better set-up for tourists with hotels, dive clubs etc. Best is to move about between 10am and 3pm to ensure the best visibility.Īrriving from the Marquise the first atolls one crosses are Takaroa, Manihi and Ahe. Once inside a lagoon, the navigation buoys (when present) are generally accurate but one should keep a keen eye out for coral heads. However when the sea swell is big it’s possible to have an outgoing tide for several days, while the lagoon empties of all the water that the waves push over the reefs. This means knowing when the tide will change! The rule to apply is that high-tide is generally around midday. During outgoing tides some passes become dangerous with standing waves and turbulence. Passes are best crossed at low tide or just at the start of the incoming tide. It is best to plan your arrival for daylight and tides to make the passes easier to handle. The sail from the Marquise typically takes 3 to 4 days reaching in the trade winds. Today sailing this zone is much easier, but it is wise to keep in mind that charts are not always accurate… Without GPS or accurate charts, it was wise to steer clear. So low on the water they are almost invisible and with strong currents and swell pushing onto coral reefs. Our favourite atolls: Fakarava, Toau, Faaite…Ĥ50 miles South West of the Marquise and 250 miles North East of Tahiti, the Tuamotus were known as the ‘Dangerous Archipelago’. The best know of these are the waves of Rangiroa and Tikehau, but Fakarava, Apataki and Faaite are just as good and mostly deserted. The passes offer great surf spots which work according to the prevailing swell. The Tuamotus are full of great kite boarding spots: steady trade winds, calm lagoons. When not swimming, one can gaze at the immense horizon and dream or set of exploring the lagoon on a paddle board. The underwater life is so abundant that snorkeling or spear fishing become a passion that one can dedicate hours to each day. Between the two is the pass, hunting zone for large fish and sharks and an unforgettable dive experience. Outside, the immensity of the ocean, inside the lagoon where the colours of the coral rival the fish. A quick selfie is needed to be sure that we’re not dreaming, not because there is an internet connection to put it on line! The Tuamotus are the essence of the Pacific Islands: a thin fringe of sand clinging to the edge of a coral reef. The anchor touches white sand in 2 meters of crystal clear water and all around is an incredible palette of greens, blues, turquoise and then mauve as the evening approaches and we light a fire on a deserted motu. ![]() And then, the wonder of the first lagoon. One is apprehensive when preparing to enter the first pass of a Tuamotu atoll, the so called ‘Dangerous Archipelago’. ![]()
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